Casa Victoria An Oasis, in Oaxaca

She was blond, so I asked her her name. Shannon she said, and asked where I was from. The blaring of a truck horn interrupted our polite conversation in the intersection of downtown Oaxaca. Yolanda leaned over and asked her if she knew where a dog friendly hotel might be. She did, and gave us directions. It turns out this was the very hotel Yolanda had found on the Internet but deleted the information when I was unable to confirm exactly what day we would arrive.

Our third country and our second international border. 2,954 miles (4,755 km) driven so far. We crossed the Mexican border at 10:15 a.m. The border crossing inspection at Laredo, TX was laughable. There was a “nothing to declare” lane with two large speed bumps. No-one so much as glanced at our passports or paperwork for the dogs. We drove right through and neither of us were sure whether we were in Mexico or not.

A Thriving Retirement Destination

San Miguel de Allende is a favorite city for thousands of expats - estimated to be 5,000 full time, 12,500 - 15,000 part-time (snowbirds), mostly from the USA although a very helpful real estate management gentleman Jim Dixon ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ) said there were plenty of Canadians living in the area.

Beware of Speed Traps and Gas Bandits

The five and a half hour drive could have been much longer if we were not driving on a Sunday, as the entire route (Hwy 20 - Hwy 54) is under construction. When they are working, the speed limit drops to 40 km/hr. We averaged 100 km/hr, but with sudden changes to 60 and 40 km along the way complete with waiting police cars. We saw someone from further away than we were - Alaska - pulled over by a speed trap.

Mexico Changes Waterfront Ownership Laws

As I write this, I am actually in Rio Dulce, Guatemala. We have hit the five country mark - over 9,000 kilometers (over 5,000 miles) and boy does my butt need a rest! We plan to visit Captain Kathie Rogers on her boat My Joh. In Spanish the “j” is pronounced “heh” so her boat name becomes “My Ho”. This, coupled with our 'autopista hooker hotel' story is starting to put a seedy twist to this trip!

Misty Mountain Moonshine - Driving From Oaxaca to Veracruz

The “good road” from Oaxaca through the mountains over to Veracruz was spectacular. Thank God they were in excellent condition. Hairpin turns a few thousand feet in the air will wake you up - as the old joke goes; “When I die, I want to go like my grandfather - peacefully in his sleep, not screaming in terror like his passengers”.

Merida is a Great City!

The moment we drove through Merida, we knew we were going to like it. Smiling faces, clean streets, historic buildings, and a dynamic central square that was hopping with activity. We circled the main square looking for a hotel. We discovered an old classic Spanish hotel El Oviedo (www.hteloviedo.com.mx - Calle 62 y 67, Colonial Center) which was tired, but perfect. The best part of the hotel was that dogs were permitted in the rooms! The entrance is a little difficult to find, as it is just a stone arch off the street. There is a white sign flat against one of the sides of the entrance. You drive right into the lobby, past the courtyard and fountain, and into the rear secure parking area. The fifteen foot high, thick wooden doors at the top of the wide stone steps were very inviting. Iron railings on each balcony added to the Spanish colonial flavor.

More of a Cruising, Diving & Fishing Destination

Xcalat, Mexico (which means “little inlet” in Mayan). In Mexico, “x” is pronounced “ish” - so it is “ishcalat”. Xcalat is a small fishing village on the Caribbean coast. Long favored as a stopover for cruising sailors, this “sleepy little drinking village with a fishing problem” is more of a diving and fishing destination more than a retirement destination.